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Cool make it your self stuff!!!
DISCLAIMER: These plans are for informational purposes only. I cannot guarantee that they will all work. Feel free to change them in any way if you think it will work better, but no matter what, by building or trying to build any of these projects, I am not responsible for any injury to anyone or damage to anything. Some of these projects may be harmful so use extreme caution with everything.
PAINTBALL CANNON
Materials:
3" Thick wall PVC pipe approx. 10" long
2 3" straight PVC couplings
1 3"x 1 1/2" reducer
1 3" threaded endcap
1 3" threaded endcap adapter
Approx. 4ft of 1 1/2" thick wall PVC pipe for barrel
PVC cement
Tools:
Hacksaw
Drill
File
Directions:
First make sure all pieces are clean for gluing. Take one of the 3" couplings and apply PVC cement all
around one of the inside ends and insert the 3" threaded endcap adapter. Let dry. With the other coupling,
glue the 3"x1 1/2" adapter. Let dry. Cut a section of the 3" PVC long enough to insert between the
coupling assemblies with about 2 inches showing between the two. Screw endcap into the endcap adapter.
Drill a small hole in the pipe showing between the couplings. Drill a small hole in the center of the endcap.
The expansion/combustion chamber is complete. Apply PVC cement to the inside of the 1 1/2" adapter.
Insert the section of 1 1/2" pipe to be used for your barrel. I recommend at least 40inches. Take a gas grill
igniter and tape the two wires together about 10' long. Insert through the hole in endcap, with the button to
the outside. On the other end strip 1/4" off the ends of both wires and form a gap between the two wires
so that when you push the button a spark jumps between the 2 wires. Pull excess slack out so that the
wires do not touch the sides of the chamber.
THE CANNON IS COMPLETE!
TO FIRE THE CANNON
ALWAYS USE EXTREME CARE!!! YOU ARE SOLELY RESPONSIBLE FOR USE OF YOUR
PROJECT!!! Remove the endcap and place a semi-tight wad of newspaper in the end of barrel nearest
chamber. Pour an amount of paintballs into barrel. Place another semi tight wad of newspaper into the
barrel so paintballs won't roll out. Squirt a small amount of hairspray or WD-40 into the hole in the side of
chamber. Start with small amounts not to remove the oxygen from chamber, or it wont fire. DO NOT
HOLD IN HANDS WHEN FIRING UNLESS YOU HAVE TESTED AND FEEL COMFORTABLE
WITH THE CONSTRUCTION. Then all you have to do is press the button and.......BOOM!!!
TO CONVERT TO CO2 SYSTEM-- cut the barrel 2 " above the expansion chamber. Attach a 1 1/2"
high quality ball valve. Re-attach barrel to other end of ball valve. THIS IS THE TRIGGER SO MAKE IT
FEEL COMFORTABLE. Remove the endcap and use reducer bushings from 3" to 3/8". Use a 3/8" "T"
fitting and install a pressure gauge on the T. next install a 3/8" cutoff valve or a tank valve before attaching
CO2 tank adapter. TO FIRE-- close trigger valve. SLOWLY pressurize the expansion chamber NEVER
HIGHER THAN PRESSURE RATING OF THE PVC YOU USED. START WITH LOW
PRESSURES FIRST!!! Get the feel of it and note pressures before going up, and always SAFETY
FIRST!!! YOU USE THIS INFORMATION AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Barrel Plug
Description
This turned out to be a really fun project. It was very inexpensive, easy to
build, and very simple. It's a ported barrel plug made from a 5/8" dowel rod
and some o-rings.
Materials
5/8 inch dowel rod
2 #35 o-rings
16 gauge wire (small amount but not necessary) or an o-ring
significantly thicker than a #35
Screw-eye
Tools
Dremel
Drill
1/4 inch drill bit (as well as some smaller ones)
Sandpaper
Directions:
Start with a 3-inch section of the dowel rod. Drill a small pilot hole and screw in the screw eye.
Using a 1/4-inch drill bit, Drill two perpendicular holes through the sides of the dowel 1-inch
from the end where the screw eye is attached.
Then drill up from the opposite side of the dowel to form a channel to the ports.
This is the touchy part of the project. Using a knife, chisel, dremel, saw, or some other
cutting tool, etch three grooves in the dowel 1/4", 1 1/4", and 1 3/4" from the end
opposite the screw eye.
Don't etch them too deep, but make sure there deep enough to hold the o-rings in
place.
Make a ring with the wire and wrap it tightly around the slit next to the ports or use an
o-ring the same diameter as a #35 but much thicker.
Slide the o-rings in place.
Now all that is left is to do a little touch up with some sandpaper. Make sure
there are no burrs or splinters.
Notes
Have a bunch of drill bits handy. When you are drilling take your time and
start with a small bit and work your way up making the whole larger.
Take your time etching the slots for the retaining wire and o-rings. You can
cut away too much wood and ruin it. But if you are cautious, you can always
cut away more wood.
The retaining wire keeps the plug from sliding down into the barrel.
The #35 o-rings in my project don't hold the barrel plug tight in the barrel.
Using a thicker o-ring will accomplish that.
The screw-eye is for tying on a string to hang the plug around your neck or
attach to your gun so that you don't lose it.
Paintball Grenades
Materials:
Paintballs (or the solution that's in them)
A pot (if your using paintballs)
A rubber tube (something like the squadbuster)
A ball bearing a little bigger than the diameter of the tube
A pin
Some string
A syringe
Directions:
First take the syringe and fill it, either using the paint from the paintballs
by heating them in the pot, or just by making your own. Take the tube and seal
off one end, by melting it together. Then fold the tube in half and tie the
string tightly around it, so that it holds each part of the tube together, just
like the squadbuster kind, and insert the ball bearing into the other side, you
can dip the unsealed end of the tube in very hot water, to expand it, so the
ball bearing will go in nice and snug, poke the pin through the tube, right next
to the ball bearing, so that it holds it in place. Dip the end of the syringe in
water, inject it into the tube, and insert the paint. When it is all the way full, it will pressurize the grenade just enough, so that when it is struck
against something hard, it will spray all over the enemy. To use it, pull the
pin out of the grenade, and simply throw at something hard, i.e. a tree, a rock,
etc.
No-Fog Spray
Description:
Goggles and eyeglasses have a horrible habit of fogging up. Especially after you've
saturated the foam with sweat. Even thermal goggles fog up too under hot, humid
conditions. I recommend that everyone build a fan to defog their goggles. But that costs
about $25 and there are a lot of cheapskates out there in paintball land. So try this, home
made no-fog spray.
Materials:
Spray bottle
Baby Shampoo (tear free stuff like Johnson's)
Water
Directions
Mix a solution of water and shampoo. I recommend anywhere from 5:1
to 10:1 (water: shampoo) in the spray bottle. You can experiment with
different strengths of the solution for best results.
Spray the solution on your goggles or eyeglasses and wipe off any
excess.
I provide no guarantee of success. Success is up to you. This no-fog spray is used by
SCUBA divers around the world, but even under extreme conditions (high heat and
humidity) even this will fail. So don't count on it as being a fix-all solution because there
is none when it comes to keeping goggles fog-free. Except using a combination, fan,
spray, and thermal lenses. Even then you still run into the occasional foggy lens.
PAINTBALL SILENCER
Materials:
approx. 17" of thin wall 3/4" PVC pipe
approx. 12" of thin wall 1 1/4" PVC pipe
2- 1 1/4" straight couplings
2- 1 1/4"x 3/4" reducer
PVC cement
a round file
sandpaper
a drill and 3/16" drill bit
a 3/4" coupling or 1"x 3/4" reducer depending on barrel type of you gun (you may want to get an extra)
some steel wool or insulation
Directions:
These instructions are for a fairly large silencer, but you can trim length to suit your tastes. I have found this large silencer to be the quietest I have ever seen. First apply PVC cement to the inside diameter to one side of both 1 1/4" couplings. Tap the 1 1/4" reducers into the glued side of couplings. Take the round file and sandpaper and ream out the reducers so that the 3/4" pipe will go ALL THE WAY THROUGH THEM,
BUT FIT TIGHT. Take your time and check size often to make it tight. Glue the 12" 1-1/4" pipe into ONE
of the couplings, leave the other side un-glued. That part is now complete.
We'll refer to that as the "cover". Measure own approx. 2" from end of 3/4" pipe and 6" from the other end,
and start drilling holes all through the middle of the marks. Take your time and make holes clean. Run
sandpaper down the inside to clear any burrs. Glue the other reducer/coupling assembly to the 2" side of
the barrel, leaving 1" extending out of the reducer. Here is where you have to determine what size coupling
to fit your gun. The 3/4" straight coupling can be sanded to fit 13/16" barrels, or use a 1"x 3/4" reducer to
attach gun to silencer. You may have to "custom fit" your silencer to the barrel you have. Just make sure
that a paintball can slide through silencer easily. Wrap the now vented barrel with steel wool and slide into
the cover assembly with end of the barrel through the opening.
The 2 pieces should fit together nicely in the couplings and allow you to take cover off for cleaning and
changing steel wool. Do not pack steel wool too tight, because you want some air space inside for
absorbing sound and expanding air.
Smoke Bombs
Materials:
Sugar
Saltpeter (usually found in a Large Drug Store)
Directions:
Ok, take 4 parts sugar and 6 parts saltpeter and put them in a pot.
Heat them over a LOW flame, stirring constantly, until it is liquid.
Pour it into a container, add a fuse, and let it harden.
You can put it into a paper cup, and just light the cup, or you could
pour it into a mold.
Take some sturdy string and dip it in wax. You now have a fuse
suitable for a smoke bomb.
WARNING: If you put the contents in a paper cup, the cup will burn
also, so don't put the smoke bomb in an area with dry grass or
anything else that will burn.
Super Squeegee
Description:
The Super Squeegee is a barrel cleaner that you would use between games that
thoroughly cleans your paintgun barrel.
Materials:
2 inch PVC pipe.
2, 2 inch PVC end caps
7/16 inch dowel rod.
1, 2 inch wood screw
Yarn
2 screws with wing nuts (optional)
Twine (optional)
PVC cement
Silicon caulk
Tools (may need more, may need less):
Screwdriver
Drill and small bits
Tape measure/ruler
Directions:
Cut 2 inch PVC to a length of 13 inches.
Cut dowel rod to 12 inches
Drill a 2-inch deel hole in one end of the dowel rod.
Drill 2 holes through the side of the opposite end of the dowel rod 1 inch apart.
Drill a hole in the top of both PVC caps.
Take some yarn and wrap it around the dowel rod between the holes in drilled in the side of the dowel rod. Then run 1 -2 loops of yarn around the wrapped yarn perpendicular to the direction the wraps run through the holes.
Using the wood screw, attach the dowel rod to PVC end cap. Then seal it with the caulk inside.
Cement the PVC cap to the 12-inch PVC section.
Drill a hole 1 inches from the open end of the PVC section and fasten a screw and wing nut in that place. Also put a screw and wing nut on the other PVC cap.
Tie a loop in each end of a piece of twine and slip the loops under the wing nuts and tighten. Seal the inside of the PVC cap and PVC pipe section with caulk.
Instruction For Use:
Fill the SuperSqueegee with water that has a little dish detergent in it. After
games remove the barrel of your gun and use the dowel rod inside to clean
it. The PVC cap with the wing nut is for closing the squeegee to keep the
water inside.
After you clean your barrel, run a commercial squeegee, paper towel or
Kleenex through it to dry the water out. I know this seems like a waste of
time, but it completely cleans your barrel of paint including any ports or
suppressor.
ProLite/Carbine Full Automatic Mod
WARNING: Doing this modification could damage you bolt, valve, and gas chamber if done
incorrectly or overly used. This upgrade is not recommended.
Materials:
Nail or similar round object (diameter of a receiver roll pin)
something to cut the nail
Directions:
Cut the nail point and head off. You must make it 1/4". Unscrew the left side of the lower receiver.
Make sure to leave all the roll pins in the right half of the receiver along with the screws, springs,
trigger, and sear. Cock the gun carefully. (make sure nothing flies out) Notice the small gap
between the sear and receiver roll pin that it swivels on. Put the modified nail there. It should fit
snuggly but not restrict the movement of the sear. Keep the gun cocked. Replace the left half of
the receiver and screw it into place. You can now dry fire the gun. See how the sear constantly
engages the trigger? This is what allows it to be full auto. Connect your CO2 and hold down the
trigger for an amazing display of firepower. You would probably want to get a motorized hopper to
keep up with the rate of fire. I noticed that a VL-200 jams up and the gun shoots air. I don't
believe that this is because of the quick cycle rate of the gun (stock prolite is 300 rpm) but rather
from the fact that most hoppers jam up often if not jiggled. you probably would want to limit your
rate of fire to three or four shot bursts, as I've found it chops up balls if you don't have a constant
feed of paint.
Warning. The tippmann may fire faster than you think. An agitated hopper may not be able to
keep up with the amount of firing coming from the prolite/carbine. I must say this is the problem
they had with the tippmann F/A. You will have full auto, but may chop a lot of balls.
PLEASE READ: it is not recommend to make any semi auto marker into an automatic. It can
damage your internals of your marker and replacing the parts may be expensive. The best thing to
do if you want to shoot faster is to reduce the trigger pull. This way you can launch more in a
shorter period of time.
How to Make The Spyder Full Auto
Warning: The Spyder is not made to go full auto. If you do this you will probably chop balls and you may risk damaging the valve.
Directions:
This is probably the best method that I have seen so far. What you will want to do first is remove
the trigger frame. Once the frame has been removed figure out how the trigger works. You will
notice that the sear can be pushed forward. When the sear is in the forward position it is engaged
with the trigger and when you decrease the pressure on the sear it is disengaged with the trigger.
The idea behind this is to keep the sear constantly engaged with the trigger. That way the sear
cannot go back to its original position and reengage the striker making you pull the trigger again.
Once you understand how the trigger and sear work remove the pin that holds the sear in place.
When the sear is removed you will notice the hole that the pin goes through has room for about 2
pins. What you want to do now is place a piece of metal in the front part of that hole. However
make sure that the metal pin will still fit. Now reattach the sear to the frame making sure that the
sear will still move up and down when the trigger is pulled, only this time the sear should stay
down for as long as you have the trigger pulled. This should render the gun full auto, one word of
advice you will probably not want to shoot long strings of paint because the valve will need time to
recharge.
PLEASE READ: it is not recommend to make any semi auto marker into an automatic. It can
damage your internals of your marker and replacing the parts may be expensive. The best thing to
do if you want to shoot faster is to reduce the trigger pull. This way you can launch more in a
shorter period of time.
DISCLAIMER: These plans are for informational purposes only. I cannot guarantee that they will all work. Feel free to change them in any way if you think it will work better, but no matter what, by building or trying to build any of these projects, I am not responsible for any injury to anyone or damage to anything. Some of these projects may be harmful so use extreme caution with everything.
Mask fan
Directions:
Get a 486 cpu fan (or a Pentium - these are usually heavy though).
Make sure it is plastic only. Get a 9volt battery. Get a 9volt
battery cap/attachment that has two wires still connected to it. Get
a small switch - plunger,lever whatever... (old lamp switches which
are a part of the cord are perfect for this - small!) If you have a
surplus electronics store around you, the most expensive thing you
will have to buy is the battery.
There are two wires that come out of the fan: red and black (most
likely) You will attach these to the two connection on one side of
the switch. The leads from the battery cap you will attach to the two
connections on the other side of the switch. To see which wire goes
where experiment by leaving the wires on right side and trading the
wires on the left side of the switch. Just hold them there at first.
Find someone with a soldering iron - perhaps your dad, your shop
teacher, the guy at the surplus electronics store, someone in a
computer or hardware store, Tv/radio repair man Etc... Now that you
know where the wires go you can solder them in place. Make sure that
the length of the wire is enough to reach both the battery and the
fan in their proper places on your mask.
This really works well with masks that have visors because the fan
has protection - so JTs are ideal.
My friend placed the battery in the loop of the elastic band just by
his right ear on his Spectra. The fan he mounted directly on the top
where the Crosswind would go. He found that the screws that came with
the cpu fan he got were pretty much the same size as the holes on top
of the lens.
Unfortunately the screws came loose after a day of play. Other
possible ways of mounting (these are guesses) are:
Hot melt glue - could break off in the end, but just might work.
Tie the fan down with wire.
Bigger screws, but there would be a problem with the holes in the cpu
fan.
This worked wonders for my friend. He turned it on when he needed it.
It performed just like the Crosswind, quiet and quick.
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